Sunday, May 16, 2010

BECKS TOWER UNDER SIEGE 2010 climbing season kicks in!!!

After a long wet winter, climbing season has finally arrived and the base camp crew is psyched to make 2010 their most productive season yet. With the desire to get some grade IV free-climbs on Becks the Crew is eager to complete there long time project "Clean Up Crew", which is only a pitch or 2 from completion estimated to go at 5.13.
As a warm up Logan, the newest member of the Shastafarian team and I decided to give the East Buttress of Beck's a try. I asked around to try to get any possible beta but despite the obvious nature of the line no one seemed to have any useful info.
We got a good early start, found our way to the base of the route easily. I racked up to get things started headed up a leaning block to a bolt, a button head with a leaper hanger. Above an 85 degree wall with no cracks and no obvious hooking stance to run to. So I decided to try the alternative start, an easy run-out slab which would put us about 40' short of the line we were trying to access. I headed up the slab got in some manky gear about halfway up continued on and found a bashee and a #2 stopper equalized with a rotten sling. From that point on it was clear we were heading into uncharted terrain. I drilled a bolt from a stance climbed about 10' and hammered in another bolt off of a single hook. Logan then stepped up drilled 2 more bolts, also drilling one from a stance and another off a single hook. We finished up a long day at about 115', with 5 bolts in and about 10' shy of some natural gear.
Stay tuned for updates and more pics.

The other Lover's Leap has not been neglected and it is developing into a premiere destination for sport climbing in the State of Jefferson. With over 30 routes now established the Leap is truly becoming a destination not to be missed.

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