Thursday, January 15, 2009

Season of the Leap!

First Ascent of 'Kaya' 5.11a Lover's Leap photos: Styles Larsen

The sudden appearence of Indian Summer in January has led to a burst of route development at Lover's Leap. Not Lover's Leap of the South Lake Tahoe area, but Lover's Leap up in the State of Jefferson. Drive through Scott Valley out the Sisson/Callahan just north of Mt Shasta and you'll notice limestone plugs to the north almost immediately. While some of this limestone has been developed access issues require a little extra driving for public access. Within an hour your drive will be rewarded by a large euro style limestone plug up on a hillside.

A 30 minute hump up the hill and your at some of the best limestone in NorCal. Local climber OT has been active in route development and has just added 2 new classics, 'Lover's Crack' a 5.9 on the Choice Venue Wall, and 'Dr. Lu' a spicy 5.8 on the Marley Wall. Also still fresh with drill dust is 'Kaya' 5.11a, juggy moves down low take you to some ultra thin sustained pimping on clean grey limestone. I suspect this flurry will continue as long as the weather is warm and by spring 'the Leap' of Jefferson State will be a new destination crag for those in or passing through NorCal.

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